Repost of the Day: The Old Trees of Alishan, Taiwan
August 18th, 2020
Today we’re in Alishan National Forest for a walk among giants in this repost from December, 2013.
More tomorrow,
Kelly
Repost of the Day: Adding a bit of light to the darkness as we get through the pandemic together. This series features travel photos from my archives, shared with you while staying close to home.
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It’s two days before Christmas and we miss the last bus to Alishan. With no backup plan, we resort to hiring a taxi to drive us up the mountain. It’s an expensive endeavor, but so are the holidays. The road turns and twists for more than an hour and at times we wonder if we’ve gone too far off the beaten path with our latest adventure in Taiwan. Our driver even stops to light a cigarette in unspoken agreement that this road is something to be reckoned with.
We finally top out and arrive at Alishan House. It’s a bit too dark and foggy to gauge our elevation but we agree that having our head in the clouds is always a pretty good indicator that we’re somewhere worthwhile. It’s not until the next morning that we see the quiet Alishan forest when we set out by foot to explore the mountaintop.
We board a five-car train for a quick ride to the start of the hike, an unexpected beginning to what turns out to be a charming walk through the forest. An elevated plank path leads the way through the trees — a mix of new and old growth, cedars and cypresses, with a profusion of greenery at every turn.
Giant red cypresses are the highlight — towering over us, impossible to photograph, firmly rooted in the mountainside, some for thousands of years, including this celebrity of the forest – the Sianglin Sacred Tree, approximately 2,300 years old.
Logging has ceased here and tourism is the economic force at Alishan. This has clearly been the salvation of these old growth trees. I think of the history through which they’ve existed, their lifetimes in pace with the redwoods and sequoias of Northern California on the other side of the Pacific.
We return to Alishan House for sunset where, above the clouds, we find a stunning view and finally sense our location high on the mountain. The old railway — no longer in use — clings to the opposite mountainside, a broken and dangerous reminder of years past. The sun sets as clouds roll past us and mountaintops jut their heads above the fog to breathe freely from the sky, just like we do.
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Alishan National Forest Scenic Area is located in south-central Taiwan, and can be reached by car, bus or taxi from Chiayi station on the Taiwan High Speed Rail route.
These giants of hundreds, if not thousands, of years deserve a respect that is still insufficiently widespread. It is encouraging, however, that tourism has helped save them, for once a positive consequence.
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Yes, it is great that some stands of old trees around the world have been saved through leadership and tourism. I do wonder how much similar habitat has been lost? If we could see the world even 200-300 years ago, there would be so much more wildlife and vegetation. We live such short lives, it’s hard to know or comprehend just how much damage we have done. Sorry for the dour thoughts!
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At least today we are more aware of the issue that was completely unknown in the past. Some of our decisions are better.
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True! Here in Lake Tahoe, practically the entire basin was clear cut and logged a century ago. Hopefully that never happens again.
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That planked walk between the magnificent giants looks so inviting. The more I read your blogs, the more I want to set out on a walk amidst Nature. Can’t wait till we are out of this pandemic situation.
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Yes, nature feels like the only constant force. It carries on while we adapt, and also provides incredible escape and renewal. Could be the biggest lesson we take from this — to seek and connect with nature again. Thanks Deb!
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It does look a stunningly beautiful country, Kelly. I follow a lady called Cheryl of Two Brown Feet and she and partner have traveled extensively in that part of the world. Those last few photos are real beauties. 🙂 🙂
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Thanks, Jo! And thanks for sharing Cheryl’s blog. I’ll look her up. 🙂
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Great post. What wonderful nature Taiwan has! Awesome pics!
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Yes, Taiwan has great nature! More than we expected and were able to see. Hope you’re enjoying the weekend!
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Spectacular Kelly. What a wonderful and clearly unforgettable trip. You can never have enough trees. Ours give us hope renewed hope every day 🙂
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Thank you, Andrew. Totally agree — trees are so important and deserving of our reverence. Terrible to know that Big Basin Redwoods State Park, where I used to hike sometimes when I lived in the Bay Area, has been burned by the recent fires. Will be interesting to learn how the tallest redwoods fared and if they’re able to survive.
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That is sad to hear. I will follow this closely.
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This is a part of Taiwan I have yet to see. When this pandemic is over, I think I should go back there. I only have good memories from my trip to this island nation back in March 2013.
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Wow, we missed each other in Taiwan by only nine months! 🙂 Yes, go to Alishan! It’s one of those places that puts time in perspective. Amazing to think of everything that has transpired in the thousands of years that the trees have been growing.
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Like a fairy tale! I could get lost in the woods there for quite some time. (The old train line is pretty freaky!)
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Yes, Alishan feels worlds away from anywhere. So quiet in the woods on the top of the mountain. The train was fun! There are three lines around the area I think. Short and rickety but pretty cool that they’ve kept them running vs. allowing car traffic. Hope you’re enjoying the weekend!
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This looks gorgeous! You’re giving me a primer of where to go in Taiwan.
Alison
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You would love Alishan!! Definitely put it on the list and spend a day.
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Completely random – my bestie from high school’s son’s wive is called Alishan 🙂
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Oh, sweet name!! 🙂
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Maybe it was OK to miss the bus and take a private car — you saw so much and had the feel of the road, for what that’s worth on a scary ride!
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