Repost: Lisbon Life
February 24th, 2021
Yesterday’s mystery is solved! We’ve arrived in Portugal, as several of you guessed correctly. The photo shown yesterday was Sagres, at the southwestern tip (post coming soon). We’ll be in Portugal for the next week or so, exploring the southern part of the country.
Today we start in Lisbon with its hilly landscape, endless tiles, wonderful food and relaxed way of life. I was here in April, 2017 and enjoyed every minute. Hope you brought your sunglasses and walking shoes. This city is a wanderer’s dream.
More tomorrow,
Kelly
Post of the Day: Adding a bit of light to the darkness as we get through the pandemic together. This series features travel photos from my archives, shared with you while staying close to home.
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Portugal sits at the western edge of Europe, with Spain along one side and the Atlantic Ocean along the other. With a stunning coastline, beautiful capital city and world-class food and wine, it has all the elements of a perfect European destination. But in the world of travel and tourism, Portugal is almost always overshadowed by its more popular neighbors. Spain and France together attract more than 150 million foreign tourists every year while Portugal only recently surpassed 10 million in 2016.
This is good news for anyone going to Portugal, as we discovered last spring. We enjoyed uncrowded streets and affordable accommodations throughout our trip. We started in Lisbon, where the history is serious but the attitude and terrain feel a lot like San Francisco. The city clings to a hillside overlooking the mouth of the Tagus river. Coming and going from our apartment in the Chiado district, we were always walking uphill or downhill on our way to the next stop.
Through the centuries, Lisbon has succumbed to the control of Berbers, Arabs, Norwegians and Spaniards, as well as the destructive forces of fire and earthquakes. All of these influences are still visible in Lisbon’s architecture, tiles and cracks in the walls.
The city’s location on the Atlantic seems to have influenced its color palette, with all the soft shades of water, sky, sunshine and sunsets applied along every street. The joy in the colors and patterns feels unique to Lisbon. A lot of time and thought has gone into embellishing this city.
Stepping into Palácio Chiado for lunch was unexpectedly cool, not only for the unique dining areas arranged on two floors but also for the contrast of chic and antique interiors among them. Lisbon’s casual style is an eclectic mix of old and new. It never feels constructed or fake, and whether you’re dining at an up-and-coming restaurant of a Michelin-starred chef (Mini Bar; José Avillez; wonderful) or just having an afternoon beer at the Praça de São Paulo (on draft, with service and good people watching), you’re welcomed with genuine hospitality.
With so many hills, Lisbon has lots of viewpoints where you can take in scenic views of the city. A walk up the hill to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara gave us our first vista across the city toward Castelo de Sao Jorge.
We took a Sunday stroll around the Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s twice-weekly flea market. Any good traveler knows that market days are the best days to see local color, and the Feira da Ladra was no exception. Locals were out with a million things for sale including clothing, dishes, artwork, antiques, old tiles and Barbie dolls. I picked up a pair of Roy-Bom (Ray-Ban) sunglasses and an old brass plate with an etched design.
Another walk took us up another hill to Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte where we could look west across the whole city to the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, the largest suspension bridge in the world (and very similar to the Golden Gate).
Back down the hill and around the Castelo de Sao Jorge, we arrived at the edge of the Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood. Buildings are packed onto the hillside with narrow walkways leading down to the main street bordering the river. This is the best area in Lisbon to experience Fado, the historic art of singing traditional Portuguese songs with trademark melancholy.
At the Praça do Comércio, the sun finally burned through the haze and brightened up the afternoon. With baton twirlers and bubble blowers around, we sat and rested our feet before continuing on to the Time Out Market.
What would a visit to Portugal be without a little Madeira wine? How amazing to see such a wide range of vintages at the market. We enjoyed a small sample poured from a bottle that was corked in 1972, the year my grandmother was traveling Europe.
The Time Out Market opened in 2014 after renovations to the complex, which has been around for more than a century. It’s a great place to grab a coffee or a gourmet bite to eat after picking up some local produce or flowers at the mercado next door. Kitchens in the market cook Lisbon’s authentic, best food (as tasted and confirmed by local experts), for affordable prices, under one roof. You can also find fresh seafood and really good charcuterie among the many delectable things to eat.
The concept has revived the neighborhood and given tourists and locals a communal place to experience Lisbon’s characteristic cuisine. And this is really at the heart why we found Lisbon so livable and lovable. The city has loads of history and beauty, but the focus really seems to be on enjoying some very basic things in life: a nice view, a good glass of wine and a great meal with friends. Who doesn’t love that?
Wonderful photos, Kelly (and you answered my kwestion about when you were here 🙂 ). It’s a lovely city, though it’s a few years since we were last there. Tourist numbers were growing to an extent that did spoil things a little- we visited in October and were really lucky with weather and visitor numbers- but now they will be desperate to welcome tourists again! The waterfront at Belém and the Monasterio were my favourites. Whereabouts was the Feira da Ladra? I missed that!
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Your superb photos brought back memories of our own wonderful time in Lisboa – who cannot fall in love with a city that has such sublime tiles?!
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Right?! I completely agree Annie! The tile sets Lisboa apart from other cities. Its visual texture and appeal is so beautiful.
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Peggy and I really enjoyed Lisbon as well, Kelly. Your photos were a good reminder. When I saw the wine-tasting display, I couldn’t help but think of the old Limeliter song: ‘Have Some Madeira, M’Dear’ 🙂 –Curt
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Hmmm, I don’t know that song! I’ll have to check the google machine. 🙂
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Possibly a wee bit before your time, Kelly. Grin.
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Your beautiful selection of photos of Lisbon brings back memories of my visit. You are right to mention the two great neighbours and the former invaders of North Africa, they are all sources of influence. There was also the English, who were more noticeable in Porto, and the immense colonial empire, which was looking oversized in relation to the metropolis.
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Thank you! I haven’t yet been to Porto and look forward to whenever we return to Portugal to explore more. The layered influences make everything a little bit more elaborate and thought provoking, which I really enjoy. The whole region of Portugal, Spain, Morocco is a designer’s dream! Color, pattern, texture, depth, in spades.
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I had a quick look back and see I read the original post. Still haven’t made it to Portugal 😦
One day . . . . .
Alison
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It will be there, whenever you go!! 🙂
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All of the beauty, fewer crowds: how could that be anything but good for travelers? I’d love to put Portugal on my “to-visit” list.
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Absolutely put Portugal on the list! I’m shocked it’s not more popular within European travel. The coast, the food, the wine, the people, the affordability — it’s ALL good! Loved every minute.
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You’re right. It may rank right up there with the popular places, but it’s still kind of unknown.
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It is indeed a gorgeous city. Now, and in 1989 when I was there. And, like the rest of the country one of the precious few places in Europe untouched by World War I or II.
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