Night Train to Sa Pa, Vietnam
March 30th, 2021
You’re in for a treat today. We’ve landed the magic carpet in Sa Pa, Vietnam for a virtual visit to the weekend market. I originally posted this story way back in 2014. I’ve updated and added a few photos. Enjoy!
More tomorrow,
Kelly
Post of the Day: Adding a bit of light to the darkness as we get through the pandemic together. This series features travel photos from my archives, shared with you while staying close to home.
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A rickety old train delivered us from Hanoi to Lao Cai after a night in the bare upper bunks of a shared compartment. From Lao Cai we completed the second leg of the journey to Sa Pa by shuttle bus — an hour-long climb on a windy mountain road, with a cliff on one side and a thick fog ahead of us. Sa Pa is located in northern Vietnam near the border with China, and the town is home to numerous hill tribes (minority ethnic groups) including Black Hmong, Flower Hmong and Red Dao. Sa Pa’s remote location contributes to its success in retaining a level of cultural authenticity increasingly hard to find elsewhere.
Upon arrival, we were welcomed to our guest house with hot cinnamon tea and an invitation to enjoy the buffet breakfast. The steaming hot pho kicked us out of our slumber with the oh-so-lovely fragrance of chilis and cilantro, and sent us on our way to exploring Sa Pa for the day.
Sa Pa’s food market held lots of discoveries, from tropical fruit to an exotic variety of bugs and worms to tables full of plucked chickens and animal organs. Cow’s head? Check. (I’ll spare you the photo.) Deep in the market, communal tables were packed with locals enjoying lunch together amidst cooked chickens, noodles and everything else needed to create a good bowl of pho. We pulled up some chairs and shared lunch and a beer with a woman from the Red Dao hill tribe.
Sa Pa sits at an elevation of 4,900 feet/1,500 meters. The high location and wet climate creates a lush, green landscape with cool temperatures in the evenings. Wrapped in fog, the surrounding mountains come in and out of view throughout the day. Looking into the valleys, most hillsides are terraced for growing rice.
From Sa Pa, we walked a couple miles downhill to Cat Cat village. The scenes along the way painted a portrait of daily life here, with kids running around, a house being built, cows in the fields, pigs in the mud, women making incense and men smoking an enormous pipe. We hired a motorbike to whisk us from the bottom of the valley back up to Sa Pa — the two of us hanging on for dear life as the driver steered the bike.
In the evening, women from surrounding hill tribes started arriving by foot in Sa Pa for the weekend market. By Saturday morning, Sa Pa was transformed into a different town, with women everywhere dressed in traditional embroidery, tassels, beads, quilts, scarves, wraps and skirts indicative of their hill tribe.
For all the women of the hill tribes, the weekend market is a place to buy, barter, eat, catch up with friends, make some money, engage with the tourists (not many) and check out the local scene. For us it was a rare and treasured look at a culture fairly well preserved in the context of the world, and a prelude to the Bac Ha market we would see the next day.
The costumes are lovely, especially the braided headwear. Not too much fun having baby bro strapped to your back but I guess everyone has to do their share in a life like that. There’s so much of everything! I wonder if they can all make a living. 🙂 🙂
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Such an evocative post, great photos capturing the vivid colours of Vietnam. When our trip was cut short through COVID, our next move was due to be the overnight train from Nin Binh to Huey. Still gutted that it didn’t happen!
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What a huge disappointment to miss the train experience. I so hope you get the chance to resume your trip and continue through the country! So much to see.
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We really hope so too. We had such a good plan! Here’s hoping…
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Kelly, my this is a scene most people are never going to see! What a visual delight with all the lovely folks and bright costumes!!!! May I add a link to your sight on my Just One Person from Around the World, see here, https://thecadyluckleedy.com/2021/03/31/just-one-person-from-around-the-world-sorrento-italy/ and Friday’s Foods of the World, see here, https://thecadyluckleedy.com/2021/03/26/fridays-foods-of-the-world-st-ives-cornwall/ on April 7th and 9th respectively? I think every one would be very interested in your post! Cady
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CadyLuck! Absolutely! Thanks so much for the honor of including my post, and also for asking first. I would love for you to share this part of the world. You’re right — it’s a bit remote and off the beaten path, and most people will never experience it. Share away! Thanks again! 🙂
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Thank You!
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A treat indeed Kelly. “Rush hour” is a stunner. Would make a great painting 🙂
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Thank you, Andrew. She was quite a ways away, running with the baby on her back. I swapped to the zoom lens and barely caught her. So pretty against the terraces.
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It is a beautiful set of photos showing traditional rural life, I wonder if this has changed today or if the traditions are still as strong.
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Thank you, Lookoom. I’m guessing that not much has changed here since we were in Sa Pa. The local traditions and way of life are one of the main draws of the area. A lot of people do homestays here too.
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Great photos, Kelly. The clothing of the different tribes was quite interesting. And the child carrying a baby that was close to his size! Fun. –Curt
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Thanks Curt! Happy you enjoyed the post. That’s what big brothers are for, right?
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Absolutely, except in my case, it was my big sister who carried me around.
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Two things I dearly love about this post — the colorful, embellished clothing the women are wearing and that bowl of pho! I fell in love with pho in Vietnam, and, to this day, I can’t find a likeness of it in the states. I haven’t looked high and low, but even in passing, I’m not finding a duplicate. Something to be enjoyed in country, I suppose.
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Thanks Rusha! Yes, the pho in Sa Pa was the most delicious of the entire trip. And it was here that I realized how great SOUP is as a breakfast food. It hydrates you for the day and it’s delicious! I can see why you’ve been seeking out a good source where you are. We’re lucky — we have a fairly authentic little pho shop here in Tahoe, although we haven’t been there since the pandemic started.
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We’re still looking, but I know we’ll be successful soon. Pho is comfort food!
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Incredible photos of a beautiful land and people. My blogging friend, Lisa, toured this part of Vietnam with a local woman who took her all over on the back of a motorcycle; I’ve never forgotten reading about that adventure, and seeing your trip to the same area reinforces my desire to get there, too. Your photos of the fields, the incense, and the embroidered fabrics (I guess I’m attracted to pattern!) and, of course, the local people, just blew me away.
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Thank you! Lisa’s experience on the back of a motorcycle sounds pretty awesome! What a great way to see this country, hopping on and off the bike. There’s so much beauty in the people, the landscape and definitely all the patterns and colors of the far north!
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Very beautiful places Kelly. Pho looks so steaming and inviting, esp of the weather is cold.
Coming to the pictures of the ethnic tribes and their dresses, ornaments and headgears, I found them very intersting. Right from the big woolen gowns to the wicker baskets, the big round earrings and the headgears, I found a lot of similarities with some of the tribes of Arunachal Pradesh in North East of India where I studied. It was like taking a step back in time.
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Super cool, Deb. One of my favorite things about travel is finding commonalities between cultures, as you have between these hill tribes and the tribes of Arunachal Pradesh. Through these simple connections, it helps us understand what we have in common, where we came from, that all of us are not that different from one another. Thank you for sharing your thoughts! And yes, that pho was every bit as delicious as it looks in the photo! 🙂
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This one’s a doozy. I had my doubts when we started off with a bowl of grubs for lunch, but it sure went uphill from there.
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HA! We had our doubts, too! But found our way to better things than the grubs. The grubs were a “Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore” moment. 🙂
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Loved this Kelly. What a trip back in time this was for me – only your photos are better lol. We loved Sa Pa and surrounding area. We also went on the o’night train (I actually slept!) and stayed of course for the Bac Ha market. We were there in 2010 I think.
Alison
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Thank you, Alison! We were there in 2010 as well. October. It was a birthday trip for me. Gosh, we were crossing paths long before we met! We loved the night train too — felt like the perfect way to get to such a cool, remote area. The whole journey was one to remember.
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Beautiful and informative.
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Thank you, Probin!
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Loved the textiles, dress and jewelry of the different ethnic groups. And of course the pho! Great images from a very interesting trip.
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Thank you, Ruth! Yes, of course the pho! 🙂 Hope you had a nice weekend.
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I love your portraits from this trip. Hoping this finds you well.
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Thanks for taking me on on a journey! Stunning pics. I can’t wait to start traveling again.
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This is one of the MOST fun trips I have taken. We took the over night train from Hanoi and spent 3 nights in homestays. So we hiked down into the rice patties and stayed with 3 different families. They made some killer food for us. The market there is amazing also. thanks for taking me back!
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